Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Vogue 8815 Peplum Top

Here is my much altered version of Vogue's 8815 Peplum Top. I've been a fan of peplums for a long time! You can see evidence of this here when I made a peplum top back in 2006! I snatched up the pattern when it was released and have been watching versions being made up around the sewing web. However, I didn't really like one thing about all those versions...the peplum started too high. It was made to start at the high waist and then the peplum would jut out from there and look like a maternity shirt from the side views! Being long torso-ed already, I did not need a peplum that started at the high waist..practically empire! (okay I know that is an exaggeration) So what to do? I got out my tape measure!

First I measured from my shoulder down over the bust to where I wanted the peplum to start and that measured 18". Then I measured from where I wanted the peplum to start to how low I wanted the hem to go. (adding additonal for hem and seam allowance) This meant I had to add 4" (I think..I'm away from the holidays and my altered pattern is at home--I'm doing this from memory). So I cut along the lengthen shorten line on the bodice and separated it by 4 inches and added tissue behind. I did this to the bodice front and back. Those pieces are done.

Next I measured the flounce/peplum. I had to shorten it by 3" to get the measurement I wanted. So I drew a line through the flounce, and then drew another line parallel to the first line but 1.5" below the first line. Then I folded these lines together to take out a total of 3". But unfortunately, by doing this, the piece gets all wonky and out of shape. To fix this, just line up your ruler at the top edge of the flounce and the lower end of the ruler at the bottom edge of the flounce and connect this line to make your new side. (You will need to add tissue under this) This should make your new piece. (Let me know if you want me to supplement this with pictures!)

The other alteration I had to make was to make a 1" sloping shoulders alteration. However, it looks like I need more according to the picture below. That is what those wrinkles by the neck mean right? I need to lift the outer edge of the shoulder up some. At least 1/4" maybe even 1/2'? That's crazy. Is this drafted for super square shoulders??



I also used an invisible zipper and bias binding around the neckline. Another thing...these sleeves are horrendous! I don't know what it is, I have never had a sleeve behave this way. There is plenty of sleeve cap ease, but not too much and I set the sleeve in fine but it is like completely flat or does not have room for the shoulder? It is bizarre..in any case, I am using different sleeves next time. (and yes I fixed the sleeve when I did the sloping shoulder alteration instead of lowering the armhole more)



I used stretch cotton poplin from FabricMart when they had all those colors for 1.99/yard earlier this year. This fabric is super thin and wrinkles very easily. I originally bought a bunch of colors to use for pants but there is no way this fabric will work for me to make pants. (Check out Lladybird trying to make pants from this fabric) I was using it to test out the pattern for when I use my pretty stretch silk poplin type weight that I got at Metro Textiles in New York.


I love how the side view does not look maternity! Yay! Mission accomplished! Lastly, I noticed as I was wearing it, that the waist would ride up. In hindsight, this makes sense because the original bottom of the bodice that attached to the peplum was made to be up at the natural waist and I lowered it to the high hip which is wider. So I now realize that it makes sense that it would need more room. So next time I need to make sure I add a little to where the bodice and peplum connect to keep it from riding up. I know it sound like so many alterations but it means I can make it exactly how I like it. Plus it looks so cute!

Wow how many times did I say peplum??

Don't forget to enter my epic birthday giveaway! I am extending the deadline to enter until after the 1st of the year so that people who are super busy for the holidays (me!) can have time to enter. One person will get 30 goodies! Make sure you go and enter!

You can see more detailed pictures and a list of all
30 giveaway items on the original post.


Pattern review can be seen here.

6 comments:

  1. Really pretty peplum! I'm too overwhelmed by your birthday largesse to enter your giveaway, but I hope you had a wonderful birthday!

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    1. KC! Good to see you back in the sewing game...we've missed you! Thanks for the birthday wishes!

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  2. This was a brilliant idea to lower the peplum - smart thinking! ...J...

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    1. Thank you! I love the way it turned out...exactly what I was hoping for!

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  3. I've just seen your blog... I think your peplum top is the best one I've seen for precisely the reason you give... they are all WAY too high! What is with that! Didn't anyone else notice that...it makes the proportion all wrong. I bought a butterick dress pattern that has a removable peplum so when this trend dies down .. ta da nice dress pattern still.

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    1. I completely agree!! I cannot wait to see your version with the removable peplum! I think I should try that next...

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