First I measured from my shoulder down over the bust to where I wanted the peplum to start and that measured 18". Then I measured from where I wanted the peplum to start to how low I wanted the hem to go. (adding additonal for hem and seam allowance) This meant I had to add 4" (I think..I'm away from the holidays and my altered pattern is at home--I'm doing this from memory). So I cut along the lengthen shorten line on the bodice and separated it by 4 inches and added tissue behind. I did this to the bodice front and back. Those pieces are done.
Next I measured the flounce/peplum. I had to shorten it by 3" to get the measurement I wanted. So I drew a line through the flounce, and then drew another line parallel to the first line but 1.5" below the first line. Then I folded these lines together to take out a total of 3". But unfortunately, by doing this, the piece gets all wonky and out of shape. To fix this, just line up your ruler at the top edge of the flounce and the lower end of the ruler at the bottom edge of the flounce and connect this line to make your new side. (You will need to add tissue under this) This should make your new piece. (Let me know if you want me to supplement this with pictures!)
The other alteration I had to make was to make a 1" sloping shoulders alteration. However, it looks like I need more according to the picture below. That is what those wrinkles by the neck mean right? I need to lift the outer edge of the shoulder up some. At least 1/4" maybe even 1/2'? That's crazy. Is this drafted for super square shoulders??
I also used an invisible zipper and bias binding around the neckline. Another thing...these sleeves are horrendous! I don't know what it is, I have never had a sleeve behave this way. There is plenty of sleeve cap ease, but not too much and I set the sleeve in fine but it is like completely flat or does not have room for the shoulder? It is bizarre..in any case, I am using different sleeves next time. (and yes I fixed the sleeve when I did the sloping shoulder alteration instead of lowering the armhole more)
I used stretch cotton poplin from FabricMart when they had all those colors for 1.99/yard earlier this year. This fabric is super thin and wrinkles very easily. I originally bought a bunch of colors to use for pants but there is no way this fabric will work for me to make pants. (Check out Lladybird trying to make pants from this fabric) I was using it to test out the pattern for when I use my pretty stretch silk poplin type weight that I got at Metro Textiles in New York.
Wow how many times did I say peplum??
Don't forget to enter my epic birthday giveaway! I am extending the deadline to enter until after the 1st of the year so that people who are super busy for the holidays (me!) can have time to enter. One person will get 30 goodies! Make sure you go and enter!
|You can see more detailed pictures and a list of all |
30 giveaway items on the original post.
Pattern review can be seen here.